Written By: Krystal
In the ongoing tradition of modding out everything we can get our grubby little hands on, Krystal has written our latest guide on modding your mouse. From bending acrylic for your mouse window to wiring up LEDs for internal illumination, just about every mod you could ever want to perform on a mouse is covered in this informative guide... definitely a good read.
Here is where it all starts. Standard scroll mouse, this one is PS/2 model, a USB mouse should only change your connector pins for the power.
Start with the disassembly and assess your options of wiring and windows. The wheel in this model is screwed in... figures. The arrow shows the pegs that are holding the buttons in place, remove them for later.
The mouse top and bottom are emptied and placed together for a form for the plexi. The plexi is heated in the oven at 275 degrees F and shaped to the mouse for a curved window.
Finished shape is ready for the window layout and cutting.
First is to fit the plexi in the place of the where the window will go. It is fitted around screw posts and PC board supports. The bit I use is a general straight cut mill bit, with the right speed it cuts both the plastic mouse and plexi without melting.
After the marking and cutting I finished out the opening with a round file first to fix any off shape and then 180 grit sand paper. notice the buttons got a trim for this window as they looked off after a trial fit.
Next was a window around the wheel. Tape up the area to be cut, and mark as designated. the trace on the tape was then moved to a piece of plexi.
The edge of the buttons should be taped together so the thin flex section doesn't break. Cutting was done with a good margin for fitting to the plexi. As when cutting the plexi there was extra left for a tight fit and a solid glue joint.
This is the plexi being fitted and set for glue. The tape is pressed as tight as can be for gluing because the glue can be drawn into any small gaps. it was glued and left to set over night and then finally masked for paint.
Prep the mouse for paint. This one was painted on the outside only so that the inside would reflect the LEDs.
The window was put in with silicone to seal the inside from stuff, like oil from hands and dust. With a bowed window I needed a block and a rubber band to hold the window in until it dried. The lighting plan needed a pin-out for the mouse cable to find the 5 volt solder points on the mouse.
Universal Serial Bus - HwB Mouse (PS/2) - HwB
Next was determining the place to mount and wire the LEDs. These are T-1 super bright parallel wired, with a 150 Ohm resistor. I used a calculator for the LEDs and came up with 33 Ohm, but I tried a 39 Ohm and it was too bright and you couldn't see anything in the mouse. So it was changed and tested for better looks.